Monday and Tuesday, July 6 and 7

Monday:
Drove the coastal scenic route around central part of the island. Stopped at sm fishing village of Victoria for lunch: lobster mango salad for S, lobster Caeser for D, especially delicious.

Stopped at historical site Ft. Amherst on hill overlooking Charlottetown, originally French but English after 7 yrs war. Ended up at provincial capital of Charlottetown. Not a big city; outskirts are standard American retail servicing bellies and cars, but central old town is very attractive. City fronts a protected natural harbor and has many early 19th century buildings. Took a walking tour and struck up a conversation with a man who heads the local newcomers. Full of info: PEI population about 140,000, actually growing a little vs other Atlantic provinces which are declining. Golden age for PEI was mid 19th century, based on shipbuilding. When that declined starting about 1870, many moved to Maine seasonally and then permanently. Economy now fishing, farming (though as everywhere, most young people don't want to farm) and tourism. PEI has very low birth rate, confirmed by an announcement at church yesterday that since there are few young children around they need adult volunteers to be altar servers. First two months of this year PEI got 18 feet of snow. They have late springs because water cold, and late autumns because water has warmed up. Some boats out sailing in the harbor, including Optimist Prams, little boats designed about 1948 by Clark Mills in Clearwater, Florida. I learned to sail in prams and taught sailing in them every summer while in college.

Instead of dinner, we settled in on Victoria Row, a downtown walking street, with a cheese platter and a bottle of wine. The people at the next table were staying at our same campground across the island, two sites away.

Went to see Anne of Green Gables, the Musical. They've been doing this show every summer since 1964. When I booked the tickets, I opted for the second cheapest seats, but we were in the 2nd row center. What do the two levels more expensive get? A solo singing part in the show? The show is well written and they did a good job: lots of singing and dancing. So sweet a show it is embarassing to have enjoyed it, but we did.

Tuesday:
PEI is actually three islands, joined by narrow isthmuses (isthmi?). Heading for the western part we drove straight to Summerside, the province's second 'city' and then picked up the western coastal road. Stopped at the Acadian museum. Acadians were early 18th century settlers from France in what is now Nova Scotia. Their land went back and forth several times between France and England. Finally after the Seven Years War (=French and Indian War), England had control and started ethnic cleansing: deported thousands to New England while others fled to PEI, Quebec, and New Brunswick, then parts of New France. Later England took PEI and again deported Acadians to France: most died enroute. Some fled to Quebec, many to Lousiiana. A few hid out, others returned when it became possible. PEI now about 25% Acadian ancestry. Many don't speak French, but there is cultural pride.

Checked into Mill River Provincial Park in W central island, left trailer and continued on coastal route. At a provincial park on S coast, there is a lighthouse which is also an inn- better campground, should have stayed there. Beautiful coastal scenery- bright green farm fields right up to red cliffs over Northumberland Strait between PEI and New Brunswick, visible in distance. 

Tourists we see are mostly local. Some from Quebec. Met one Williams College alum who spotted my t-shirt. For good measure, I later spotted a St. Pete Beach t-shirt (Toronto resident). Haven't seen a U.S. license plate in at least 2 weeks.