July 16 Linwood to Inverness, Nova Scotia

Rain overnight, followed by a clear but very windy morning- forget canoeing. We continued driving NE along the coast, crossing over a short bridge to Cape Breton Island. Stopped at Judique (still don't know how to pronounce it) at a Celtic Music Interpretive Center. We got lessons in Scottish Gaelic, in fiddle playing, and in step dancing. Lots of fun. Also a good interpretive center about the history and types of music in the area. Live music started so we stayed to listen and have lunch. Afterward we took a short hike on a coastal walking path and drove another few miles to Mabou, where we bought a hiking trail map and set out in search of the trailhead for their network of hikes, which we'd read were very scenic. The paved road turned to gravel, then to rough gravel, then dirt, then single lane, then closed in on both sides by trees and shrubs, then- we stopped, because of an overdue sense of discretion: we were towing a trailer, after all. There was a wide spot, not quite wide enough to turn around, so I carefully backed up the road until we reached a farm field driveway. It was enough of a project to get the trailer turned around that we decided we'd had enough adventure without the hike. We continued up the coast road along cliffs overlooking the sea and little fishing harbors to the town of Inverness, where we camped overlooking the ocean. The wind was still very strong so we were grateful for the shelter of a few trees which we otherwise would have resented for obstructing the view. Earlier at the Celtic Music Center we'd picked up a brocure from which we learned that there is a Thursday night caelidh (CAY-lee) at Inverness's fire hall. After dinner we went to find it, vaguely expecting music but not knowing quite what a caelidh is. In this case it was traditional music played by local youngsters. Fiddle tunes accompanied by keyboard, sometimes rhythm guitar or celtic drum. Also some step dancing by young people and adults. And some songs in Gaelic which everyone seemed to know. Among the musicians was a young woman we recognized as having been playing earlier in the day at the Celtic Music Center. The quality of the music was very good on the whole, and it was all low key. We were among few non-locals. These caelidhs are a local institution at various towns up and down the coast.