July 17 into Cape Breton Highlands National Park

After a couple of days of evident Gaelic cultural influence, a few miles up the coast from Inverness today we suddenly passed into an area with French names, French signs, and Acadian flags everywhere. Shortly, we entered the huge Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Let me say it once and be done- the coastal scenery is the best God could do. An engineering marvel of a road winding around and over mountains and ravines along the deep blue sea. We stopped for lunch by the shore at a spot called Le Bloc, formerly the site of a French fishing village before the park was created in 1936. No trace left now, except remnants of a large concrete jetty. They had no harbor and little protection for their boats. After lunch we drove a few more miles and then set out on a 6-mile hike on their Skyline Trail. Very easy trail- well groomed and not much climbing. Even though there were many people on the trail we did see a moose and also a Ruffled Grouse with chicks. The trail went out to a headland about 1300 feet above the ocean with a wonderful view all around. The last extensive hike we took was back up in the Gaspe, and it had left us tired and sore and wondering if our hiking days were about over. Today was a redemption hike, very enjoyable and not exhausting. It didn't hurt that it was sunny and 65F. On to Hideaway Campground, at South Harbor near the north end of the park's Cabot Trail coastal road. This looks like a place we might get the canoe in the water, but we've thought that before. When you stick to the seacoast, you don't get many places good for a canoe.

The drive across Cape Breton Island along the National Park boundary from west to east climbs through mountains and valleys. The elevation is not high but the road climbs and descends very steeply. The Suburban's V8 was working hard on the climbs and braking was difficult on the downhills. The Cabot Trail road around the perimeter of the park is famous as a bicycle touring destination, but I am just as happy not to be doing it. Our bikes are well equipped for steep climbs, though our bodies are not as well equipped as they once were. And steep descents are really no fun since they take constant braking, especially on roads with sharp curves and switchbacks like the Cabot Trail. Fun to drive though, and the scenery can't be beat.