11-13 to home

Back across Tampa Bay, in Pass a Grille and home, with a strong contrary wind. Mostly under power, but it took longer than yesterday's sail, even though the distance was shorter. We enjoyed this cruise at least as much as any before, maybe partly due to several good dinners ashore. I have a long list of to-dos before we're off again, probably in April and probably north up the coast. We're already looking forward to it. For now, we 're home and enjoying  having enough room to both move around at the same time. Luxury.

11-12 to Cortez

The forecast was for wind from Northeast at 15 which suited us fine. We were out the Venice inlet at 7:45 and sailed Northwest along the coast. The wind actually turned out to be 15 to 18 and we were on a reasonably close reach. We ended up with a double reef most of the way, still moving at hull speed. The temperature was in the 70s and although showers threatened early we were dry for most of the trip. Once we were out in the Gulf, Otto the autopilot did most of the work and we enjoyed a magnificent sail. We covered the 23 miles to Longboat pass in 5 hours and 15 minutes. I think it may have been our finest sailing passage ever aboard Carina. It certainly made up for all the times on this cruise when we wished we could sail but couldn't. Longboat pass shifts all the time so we didn't know what kind of Channel markers we would find. It turned out to be a straight shot in on a course of 60 degrees with two sets of buoys and depth never less than about 10 feet. As we came in the channel a windy rain shower greeted us. First rain we have seen in 2 weeks. By the way I do know how to spell and capitalize. Google not so much. Another mile and a half took us to dock at our old favorite, the Seafood Shack. We decided to eat dinner ashore because we are having trouble with our propane stove- a new stove is on our to-do list when we get home. It is a long list.

11-11 to Venice

Had a nice northeasterly breeze this morning to sail across Lemon Bay and then when the waterway narrowed we motor sailed the rest of the way to Venice. Arrived midday after only about 12 miles, docked at Fisherman's Wharf where we stopped on the way south. Put the bike together and rode to Publix for one last provisioning. Then later we rode to the cathedral for a pre Sunday mass and were home for cocktails before dark. Dinner aboard and enjoyed a cool breezy evening. Sounds boring but a nice day. 

11-10 to Engelwood

Finally today we got half of what we wanted: the wind was 12 to 15 knots but unfortunately it came from the north which was where we were going. So most of the day was under power. (sounds familiar?) We stopped in Lemon Bay at Palm Harbor Marina, a place we had not visited before. Took a walk and enjoyed a bottle of wine and dinner aboard.

After dinner I scrubbed the bilges and cabin sole to get rid of the residual mess from our leaking fuel line last week.

11-9 at Cabbage Key

We decided since we had a long day yesterday to stay an extra day at cabbage key. Gives us a chance to do laundry, read our books, walk around their nature trail and rest. When the dark master showed up in the morning he was grumpy and didn't like where we were moored but Dennis schmoozed him and by the time we left he was our best bud.  In the afternoon we cranked up the dinghy's motor and explored around the island. The population of gopher tortoises on the island has grown and they are thriving. Some of the larger ones have been on the island longer than anyone can remember- 50 years or more. Another good dinner ashore.

11-8 Wed. to Cabbage Key

No useful wind so we powered up the water way inside Fort Myers Beach. Then we did have a nice sail across San Carlos Bay to the Sanibel Bridge. The original plan was to Anchor in Pine Island Sound somewhere around st. James City but we were making good time (since we were under power)so we decided to press on all the way to cabbage key. on the way up Pine Island Sound we were treated to a large school of dolphins who were feeling very frisky. Some of them were leaping clear of the water. We didn't reach the cabbage key restaurant and Lodge until after 5 so we had to pick our own spot to tie up, which of course turned out to be not where they wanted us. After an over the top seafood dinner at the restaurant we were in bed early after a long day on the water- almost 40 miles.

To Mound Key and Ft Myers Beach

Leaving Sanibel we finally had a good sailing breeze across San Carlos Bay, though it died before we entered Big Carlos Pass south of Ft. Myers Beach. The pass is barely deep enough for our 3' draft- how many other boats that make it in are high enough to require an opening of the bridge across the pass? The bridge tender must have an easy job. Once inside we wound our way through mangrove islands to our objective of Mound Key, site of the ceremonial capital of the Calusa civilization that ruled the southern half of Florida for 2000 years. Nothing there now but high overgrown mounds and a few inadequate signs, but it was fun to walk around and imagine what was there once. We retreated back to the 21st century and stayed at a fine marina.

11-6 to Pt Ybel, Sanibel

details later

met people from Sweden hoping to see a manatee. Told them very unlikely. On way out of Channel we hit a manatee.

Couple of hours of sailing and then wind died. 20 miles to Sanibel Marina, where they deliver newspaper and warm muffins to the boat in the morning. Delicious seafood dinner grouper oysters shrimp and crab cakes. It's a hard life.

11-5 at Captiva

details later

20 mi round trip by bike to church (a story there itself) brunch and shopping. took dinghy gunkholing.

11-4 to Captiva

Last night should have been good sleeping conditions- comfortably cool and calm weather, with a fine full moon. But fishermen were coming in and out periodically all night, using their "ouside voices". But we survived.

We waited for a reasonably high tide to leave on so we had the morning to kill. We took a long walk around Pineland, a sleepy old settlement with traces of old farms and mango groves. Then we visited an archaeology research center. Turns out Pineland was the site of one of 60 Calusa Indian towns, with a complex of ceremonial mounds, some of which still stand (others have local houses built on them). We plan on visiting another Calusa site in a few days so more about them later. The Pineland site was called Tampa. An 18th century cartographer mistakenly applied the name farther north.

We made our way out the long, shallow channel without incident, except the phone's GPS function went on the blink for a few critical piloting minutes. We made our way into Pine Island Sound and down to Captiva Island and a marina we have visited twice before. Top notch place with welcome amenities including laundry, showers, and a pool.

11-3 to Pine Island

yThe highlight of the day was a glorious sail across Charlotte Harbor. A good breeze for the first time since last weekend's storm.

We'd planned to stop at Cabbage Key, one of our favorite stops, but there is a bonefish tournament going so they have no room for us. So we opted for Tarpon Lodge at Pineland on Pine Island. We'd not been there before, since they have a long channel with 3' depth (Carina draws 3'). But we timed it for near high tide and approached slowly; did not touch bottom.

In Charlotte Harbor a group of porpoises went out of their way to check us out. Two of them raised their heads vertically out of the water to look at us. Never seen them do that before.

In Gasparilla Sound, north of Charlotte Harbor, we passed a small island with hundreds of White Pelicans, seasonal visitors. Also one local Brown Pelican; probably a tour guide.

Dinner at Tarpon Lodge was white-tablecloth fine dining, quite a contrast to a day on the water. Excellent dinner, too.

Thur. 11-2 to Cape Haze

Away from dock at 9:30 after an exciting dock and undock at the  fuel dock with a strong current. There were many bike riders along the narrow waterway where we rode yesterday (and often before). It made us feel we own the area.

We kept the sails up but there wasn't enough wind to turn off the engine except for brief stretches.

Boca Grande is out of reach by daylight so we anchored in a nice protected cove at Cape Haze before entering Charlotte Harbor, which we planbto cross tomorrow.

While sailing today I ordered, from Amazon, replacement parts for the head and the gas grill. 21st century is great but I would sure like delivery to the boat by drone.

Besides the light wind it was beautiful weather- 57 this a.m., 80 this afternoon.

11-1 Wed. at Venice

A non-travelling day at Venice. In the morning we put the Bike Friday tandem together and rode along the waterway. We used the bike to reprovision in the afternoon, and after dinner we walked to a sports bar to see game 7 of the world series. We were the only ones at the bar who weren't regulars (think of yourself at Cheers) several of the regulars came over to check us out and say "state your business" but in not those exact words. We were glad to see Houston win, if only because they had never won a WS before.

It was a cool, sunny day with a light easterly breeze.

Tuesday 1031 to Venice

After a surprisingly cold night- 44 degrees in the morning- we sailed  across Sarasota Bay with a good easterly breeze. After that the wind was lighter and we motor sailed our way along the Intercoastal Waterway. It turned into a beautiful sunny day in the 70s. At Venice we docked at the Fisherman's Wharf Marina, named after the adjacent restaurant which no longer calls itself Fisherman's Wharf.

We walked a mile or so to  Publix  for  provisions  and on the way  we  encountered  a Halloween parade  with many  scary children .  Made us feel that we didn't miss Halloween after all .

After dinner we watched the Dodgers even up the World Series at 3-3.

We have two major improvements on Carina this trip. We have an outboard motor for the dinghy which we have not yet used, and we have a roller furling jib which we use all the time. It was nice to have hank-on jibs so we could change headsails to suit conditions, but roller furling makes life so much easier on a cruising boat there is no contest.

We will stay at Venice an extra day and do a bike ride on there  bike trail which runs along both sides of the Waterway.