Thunderstorm came through at 5 a.m., first time for us in Maritimes. 47 F a.m. Newfies say they have a new month: Junuary. When we woke up there was an iceberg offshore offshore. Can't tell how far but it's obviously big. Yesterday's iceberg at Red Bay didn't look very big but it was aground in 100' of water. Iceberg moving at ship-speed to NE. I thought Labrador current moved SW down into Straits of Belle Isle? Also a boat-sized chunk of ice about 1/2 mile offshore. Once underway, we stopped at L'Anse d'Amour, anglicized from L'Anse d'Morts. We like amour better. Speaking of anglicization, the Newfie favorite berry, bakeapple got its name by anglicizing the French "What's this berry called?" At Point d'Amour learned of HMS Raleigh, heavy cruiser flagship of British Atlantic Fleet in 1922 was heading for a spot where the officers could go salmon fishing when it ran aground at Pt. d'Amour. Capt. was below, nursing a hangover. The bottom was ripped out but the ship sat upright there for 4 years when the British blew it up out of embarassment. Debris said to still be all over the area. Also pieces of cordite fuse still found on beach. Our young guide had one. She's a nursing student at Memorial Univ in St. John's, lived nearby in Labrador all her life. Boyfriend is Inuit from far N Labrador town of 130 who graduated HS in a class of one. He's also at univ. She visited there and whole town knew she was coming, turned out. No chance they're going there to live. Took ferry back to Nfld 1 1/2 hours, seas from TS in night, 47 F a.m. iceberg offshore dk how far but obviously big. yest aground in 100'. foggy. stopped at l'anse amour (morts). read on the way that bakeapple is anglicized fr what's that berry called. Pt amour HMS raleigh wrecked '22 on way to ofcrs salmon fishing. flagship of br atl fleet. stuck for 4 yrs, embarassment, blown up, debris still on beach, pcs of cordite fuse. guide nursing student at memorial univ st john's. boyfriend inuit extreme n of lab, grad class hs of 1. she visited, town of 130 all expecting her. She was at Red Bay a few days ago when our iceberg there broke off from a larger one with a loud crash and rolled over. Must have been something to see. Took ferry back to Nfld, 1 1/2 hours, confused sea: wind and waves from S, ocean swells from N. Ferry Alpollo rusty and old. Bet it's on it's last assignment. Once off the ferry weather cleared and warmed to high 60's. Saw sun, maybe 1st time in a week. At Torrent River campground met touring cyclist Terry who just completed ride across Labrador Highway. 1100 km, almost all unpaved, with no svcs. Crazy. Maybe we should go ahead with our Can-you-top-that trip: Northwest Passage. By canoe. In winter. No supplies- living off the land.
Blackflies- You don't feel the bites but they bleed, and the next day you have an extremely itchy lump which persists for a week or two. Or longer. Putting the best face on it, a quote from labradorcoastaldrive.com: "Biologists tell us that the presence of these insects is a sign of an unpolluted environment. Plan for these flies and arrange your outdoor activities accordingly, and they do not have to be a nuisance. The flies are only a problem when the air is warm and calm. Along the coast there is nearly always a breeze. In addition, most types of insect repellent work and should provide enough protection". It's true that the coast is windy. The rest is all lies. Topical benedryl helps. Also alcohol, taken internally.
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