Monday and Tuesday, August 3 and 4 at Labrador

Monday:
on road 7:00 to Mary's hbr, foggy and mountainous to pinware, then barren, ponds, rivers, tuckamore, rolling hills. pavement ends red bay, good gravel road 50 mi to Mary's hbr, plenty of time for 11 ferry. girl at ferry  one of 4 rumbolt families, there since ;;1800. in 60's perm res of offshore island fishing towns resettled in new Mary's Cove 1930. now seasonal fishing and locals use their old fishing homes for vac homes. pass ferry, only others a mother and son, rock and roll, foggy, rocks and islands. capt says this summer worst ever for fog and cold because usu prevailing w wind but this year from E. iceberg in distance. Battle hbr ;;20 bldgs on narrow cut between 2 islands. greeted, to room descr, lunch fish cakes, tour old fisherman been on battle hbr every yr all his life. bldgs and hist. 1770 english merchant firm established a "room" for cod: fishing, drying, salting, ship salt cod on schooners, 100 yrs sold to another merchand firm, 1955 to a 3rd. were other rooms, battle hbr considered the cap of labrador. yr round res left 1967 when province wouldn't subsidize a teacher. "room" closed 1992when cod banned, donated to hist tr. Always same: fishing from sm rowboats within a mi or 2 of lBattle hbr, some co ees and boats, some indep. merchant only mkt, pd in cr at co store. woman 60 born and never left report stimulated anglican mission church and grenfell hospital. school 10-20. 300 pop usu. some bldgs date from 1770 incl pork bldg near pier. many artifacts, boats, bldgs. jean claude roy fr and newfie ux. hike, views, marconi, plane wreck, cemeteries, drinks and dinner good company. vocab: skiff= rodney or punt, room, oar= paddle. one yr 1880's there were 1300 schooners on coast of lab

Tues:
had rained in night. 50 and foggy. ferry back at 9. 50 mi to red bay, hist site basque whaling station 1540 to ;;1600. discovery started w woman learning spanish and rsch in sp archives. led search of lab coast, found evidence, ;;10 seasons of arch, rendering pots, forge, cooperage, graveyard 130 pop, evidence that basques and indians there same time.divers found wreck of san juan as documented in archives, on top of shallop, preserved,  brought up: dead ringer for boat at battle hbr in hull form, const and size. 28'. artifacts clothes from graves, ship parts incl hourglass and binnacle, bilge pump. boat ;;1/2 mi to island with arch sites, walk, view of iceberg, rtn boat pd boatman to take us to iceberg. cold, bundled. 20 mi to pinware, camp on beach, laundry, 47, misty rain, foggy, windy: not a beach day.