Been negligent about writing up the blog. I've kept notes, but that's no substitute: often overlooks the most interesting items. Anyway,
Saturday, 8-29. Drove from Mt. Desert Island to Deer Isle. Not more than 15 miles as the crow flies, but 1 1/2 hours of driving. Checked into Old Quarry Adventures campground near Stonington. The campground's main business is kayak rentals to people heading to offshore islands to camp. We launched the canoe and paddled for an hour and a half among rocks and inlets. Didn't venture far offshore because of a moderate chop and a headwind we'd face returning. Drove 2 miles into Stonington to check out the church so we'd know when and where to go in the morning.
Deer Isle is a chain of islands linked to the mainland by bridges and causeways. Stonington is at the south end, a picturesque seafaring town with little of the glitz of Bar Harbor. Most of the boats in the harbor are lobster boats, nearing the end of the season. More remote offshore islands have lobster seasons which extend all winter, because lobsters move into deeper water. I get the impression that the lobster fishery isn't as closely regulated as it is in Canada.
Sunday, 8-30: Drove into Stonington for 8 o'clock Mass, then to a cafe in town for breakfast. Plan for the day was to rent a sailboat. The campground has several, including two pretty little O'Days. But there was little wind so we held off on that. We took a walk in the old granite quarry on top of the hill behind the campground. It operated from about 1895 to 1960's. They still quarry granite on one of the offshore islands and barge it in. Still waiting for wind to pick up, read John Grisham's Bleacher, which I'd picked up in town from a free book rack outside a shop. Finished off the whole book, but still no wind and now it's too late. Disappointing; looks like a great place for a day sail, gunkholing around many small islands. Also continued to read Saul Bellow's More Die of Heartbreak, and reread a slim book of the two Icelandic Vinland Sagas. The sagas themselves are easy and entertaining reading, and the book has a lot of background information. It turns out that L'Anse aux Meadows, the Norse site at the north end of Newfoundland, was definitely one of their camps during the three expeditions over the years 999 to 1009, but can not be the place they gave the name Vinland to. Vinland had grape vines, self-propogating grain, and butternut trees, none of which grow that far north. No other Norse site has been found in North America, so Vinland is yet to be found. The book's notes make a case that it might have been on Prince Edward Island or across the Northumberland Strait on the coast of New Brunswick. Wherever the site was it may have been destroyed by later settlement, so we may never know.
So- a lazy day, but not an unpleasant one.
Monday, 8-31: Drove to Camden. On the way, stopped at Bucksport on the Penobscot River, where there is a new cable-stayed bridge by the same engineers as the Sunshine Skyway Bridge. We took an elevator to the top of one of the towers and had a great view of the river, towns, and surrounding countryside. Right next door is Fort Knox which we also toured. The fort was built in the early 19th century following the War of 1812 when the British recaptured (and annexed!) eastern Maine. The fort was still not complete by the Civil War, at which time it was hurriedly "fortified" in reaction to a buildup of British troops and ships in Canada and the fear that the British might intervene on the side of the Confederacy. I had no idea of that. Afterward, the fort languished and spent most of its career with a garrison of just one man.
At Camden we took a short hike toward the top of the mountain behind Camden Hills State Park, where we camped years ago on our way to the Maritimes.
Tuesday, 9-1: Went into Camden, walked the waterfront, and signed up for a day sail on a schooner, the Surprise. A 48 footer built in 1918 as a yacht on the lines of a Gloucester fishing schooner. Very pretty boat and in pristine condition. Enjoyed the outing, but not enough wind to really sail. And when we did have a little wind, they didn't trim the sails accordingly; just kept them sheeted in even though we were on a light beam reach. Probably didn't want the booms moving around. Helped with halyards. Capt and mate made a big deal of my knowing how to coil and stow lines. After the cruise we did some grocery shopping and then drove to the top of Mt. Battie for a spectacular view of Camden harbor and Penobscot Bay. We could see across to Deer Isle.
Wednesday, 9-2 Moved on toward Boothbay Harbor, only a short distance. Stopped briefly at Rockland where there were two large charter schooners, including American Eagle, on which son Peter crewed one summer. After setting up camp we drove in to Boothbay Harbor but did not stay: hard to find parking and we could see what we wanted to from the car: a pretty town and fine natural harbor. Lots of lobsterboats but no schooners or other boats of note. Headed back to camp and set out on a good canoe paddle. Went 1 1/2 miles down a tidal river (high tide) too. Before dinner, S took advantage of the nearness of the campground's laundry.
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